TUNE M1 CONFIGURATOR:
EVERY OPTION, EXPLAINED

The M1 is the full camper: pop-top, sleeping platform, side access panels, 440+ feet of T-track, awning doors, and mounting hardware. The M1L is a stripped-down lightweight shell: fewer features, lower price, less weight.

Within the M1, you'll choose a platform size: the mid-size M1 (Tacoma, Ranger, Colorado) or the full-size M1 (Tundra, F-150, Ram, Silverado). The full-size gives more floor space and a longer sleeping platform (60" × 78" vs. 60" × 72") but weighs ~100 lbs more (~500 lbs vs. ~400 lbs). See the M1 vs. M1L comparison for the full breakdown.

All five canvas colors are included at no extra cost. Sand and Charcoal are the most popular in the community. Lighter colors (Sand, Steel Blue) reflect more heat — worth considering for desert Southwest or summer-heavy use.

Glass doors add ~30 lbs per panel but let natural light flood into the camper. The good news: you can buy the glass doors later and swap out the aluminum awnings yourself. Bought aftermarket, the tempered glass runs about $750 per side, roughly $200 more per panel than ordering at the factory. But you keep the aluminum doors as a backup set, which is nice for situations where you want the lighter, tougher option.

If you're undecided: start with the standard aluminum ($0), save the $1,100, and upgrade to glass later if you want. If you're sure you want glass, ordering from Tune saves ~$400 total versus buying after.

The rear door is your main access point for loading gear. Like the side doors, the tempered glass awning door can be purchased later for ~$750 (~$200 more than ordering at the factory), and you keep the aluminum as a spare.

Barn Doors vs. Awning: Pros & Cons

Barn doors swing open to both sides, giving you the widest possible opening. The big advantage is easy entry and exit, you can stand on the tailgate and step right in. The downside: when both doors are swung open, they can be awkward in tight campsites or windy conditions, and they offer zero rain cover over the opening.

Awning doors (standard aluminum or tempered glass) flip up on a hinge, creating a canopy over the rear opening. This gives you built-in rain protection, you can have the back open in light rain without getting soaked. The tradeoff is a harder entry/exit since you're ducking under the door. For many owners, the weather protection is worth that tradeoff.

The tinted glass insert window ($450) is a third path, it adds a window to your existing rear door without changing the door style. Good for rear visibility and light at the lowest price.

The cab access window connects the camper interior to your truck cab through the rear window. Tune cuts a precise opening in the front wall. This cannot be added after delivery. It's a now-or-never decision.

I'd order the Window with Slider ($500). It gives you a pass-through for small items, communication with the cab, and cross-ventilation. The Custom Drop-Down with Slider ($800) provides a larger opening for easier gear access, a premium convenience.

This is fully optional, you can camp without it. But if there's even a chance you'll want cab access, order it now. You won't be able to add it later.

SunBlocker is a reflective material that reduces heat buildup, meaningful if you camp in hot or sunny climates. Blackout blocks light from coming through the roof panels, making the sleeping area darker. Together ($800) you get both.

The standard white FRP lets in more natural light during the day, which many owners prefer, the camper feels brighter and more open. If you camp in moderate climates and don't mind some light through the roof, the standard option works great.

If you're in the Southwest, desert camp, or are a light sleeper, the SunBlocker + Blackout combo is worth considering. All add-ons in this section cannot be added later, you must choose yes or no at order time.

This is the easiest yes on the entire configurator. Tune cuts the roof opening and installs the fan before the camper ships, and if there's ever a leak or issue, they'll fix it. Retrofitting a roof vent means cutting a hole in your own roof, and the risk of a bad cut or leak isn't worth saving a few bucks. Let the pros do it.

The 00-07500K ($650) is the community favorite: remote control, motorized lid, 10-speed fan with intake and exhaust modes. The 00-06200K is the same fan without the remote. The 00-04401M sits flatter, useful if ground clearance is tight in a garage.

This one's for everyone. Air circulation makes a real difference for comfort, condensation management, and sleeping quality, even in mild weather.

The King Slide Extender ($200) is worth ordering from Tune if you have a 5' bed truck. It's a mechanical slide that extends the sleeping platform to ~80", nearly king-size. Tune installs the hardware during build, which is cleaner than retrofitting. If you're on a 6'+ bed, you don't need it.

For the Hest mattress, this one's a toss-up. The price is the same whether you buy through Tune or directly from Hest. But buying direct from Hest gives you two advantages: you might find a 10% off code or bundle it into a bedding package, and (more importantly) if you don't like it, you can return it directly to Hest. That's harder to do through Tune. I'd buy from Hest directly for the flexibility.

If you want to go a different direction entirely, custom-cut HD36-R foam from Foam Factory runs $80–$130 at 4" thick, and the Nemo Roamer and Exped MegaMat are popular in the $200–$350 range. See the mattress guide for a full comparison.

This section has the most options, but the recommendation is straightforward: don't buy the power station from Tune. The Pecron E1500LFP frequently sells for ~$469 direct from Pecron (MSRP $1,299), Tune charges $950–$1,150 for the same unit. That's $500–$700 in savings by buying it yourself. And a standalone 100–200Ah LiFePO4 battery ($200–$600) with a basic 12V system gives you even more flexibility for less.

What I would order: Custom Wiring to Customer Battery ($150). Tune runs dedicated wires from the lights, fan, and heater prep to the front passenger corner, with T-track covers to hide everything. They add adapters that interface with any 12V system you bring. It's cleaner and saves time and effort. You could wire it yourself to save $150, but $150 is cheap for letting the factory handle it.

See the battery guide for standalone battery options and the electrical guide for wiring your own 12V system.

Don't buy panels from Tune. Third-party flexible panels are cheaper and easy to install yourself, they stick to the roof with adhesive and plug into the solar port. The only reason to pay Tune's markup is if you don't want to get on the roof. A single 200W flexible panel from Renogy or EcoFlow runs $150–$250. Two panels (comparable to Tune's dual 220W setup) cost $300–$500, versus $1,750 through Tune. $1,000+ in savings for a couple hours of straightforward work.

The Solar Port ($200), on the other hand, is a definite yes if you're planning solar. Tune routes the wiring through the roof to a weatherproof port. It's another roof penetration you want done at the factory. Even if you're not sure about solar yet, the port gives you the option later without drilling.

See the solar guide for panel picks, sizing, and mounting tips.

This is the most expensive add-on, and I'd skip it at order time. The Truma is the gold standard in camper heating: reliable, safe, quiet, well-integrated. People who have it love it. But $3,600–$4,000 is a significant chunk of any build budget, and unlike the roof vent or cab window, you can add a Truma later. That gives you time to actually camp and see what your heating needs are before committing $4,000.

In the meantime, a Chinese diesel heater (Vevor, HCalory) runs $150–$300 and heats effectively. Many M1 owners run them through multiple winters. See the heater guide and winter camping guide for both paths.