80/20 BUILDOUTS, 3D PRINTS
& COMMUNITY MODS

First Mods: Where to Start

The most popular Tune M1 accessories are Southco compression door latches, a MaxxAir roof vent fan (order from Tune at configuration time), LED strip lighting, and 80/20 aluminum extrusion for interior organization. Start with these before moving to custom builds. They make the biggest difference in day-to-day usability.

• Powered roof vent fan (MaxxAir, installed by Tune). The single biggest comfort upgrade. Temperature and condensation control in a small enclosed space matters more than almost anything else. It's an optional add-on, ordered at configuration time. Tune cuts the hole and installs it as part of your build.
• LED lighting. 12V LED strip along the ceiling rail transforms nighttime usability. Warm white (2700–3000K) is more livable than cool white. A straightforward afternoon install.
• Privacy shades / window covers. Sleep quality in camp is much better with blackout coverage. DIY reflectix cut-to-fit or aftermarket window covers.
• Side awning. A shaded outdoor area alongside the camper for cooking and rain cover. The ARB Soft Case Awning with Light (8ft, ~$249) mounts to a roof rack or the M1's T-track and adds ~34 lbs up high, so it counts against your payload. See the awning bracket guide for what fits the M1's T-track, weight rules for 270° awnings, and the Tune Universal Awning Mount.
• T-track organization system. Even a few Quick Fist clamps and a gear net along one wall turns chaos into a functional setup. Use the 440+ ft of built-in T-track before buying anything else.
• 12V power (battery + DC-DC charger). If you haven't done electrical yet, this is what makes everything else work. See the battery guide.
• CO/CO2 detector. Non-negotiable if you're running any combustion (diesel heater, propane stove). Small, light, cheap. Do not skip this.

80/20 Interior Buildout

T-slot aluminum extrusion (commonly called 80/20, after the original manufacturer) is the most popular material for custom M1 interior systems.

Why 80/20 vs. wood or other materials

• Lighter than wood. Critical for payload-constrained builds
• No welding required. T-nuts, corner brackets, and bolts handle everything
• Fully modular. Rearrange, remove, or add sections anytime
• Strong for its weight. Handles gear loads easily when properly designed
• Clean aesthetic. Looks intentional and finished

Getting started: profiles, hardware, and tools

Profiles to know

• 1"×1" (10-series / 1010). ~$3/ft. Lighter, smaller footprint, great for accessory rails, lighting mounts, bedside organizers. Uses 1/4-20 hardware.
• 1.5"×1.5" (15-series / 1515). ~$6/ft. Stronger, better for structural shelves or anything holding heavy gear. Uses 5/16-18 hardware.
• 1"×2" (10-series / 1020). ~$4/ft. Good compromise. Wider face for shelf decking or panel mounting, still relatively light.

For most M1 builds: use 10-series for lightweight accessories and 15-series for anything structural.

Attaching 80/20 (or any aftermarket bracket) to the M1's T-track happens with hammer nuts. The community-tested answer is M8 in the 4545 profile, with Tune's $20 first-party 10-pack as the easiest path. The hammer nuts guide covers profile choice, M6 vs M8 tradeoffs, and the wrong-size return trap.

Where to buy

• 8020.net. Direct from manufacturer; cut-to-length service; ships anywhere; allow 5–10 days
• MISUMI (misumi-usa.com). Extensive catalog, precise cuts to the millimeter, competitive pricing
• Local metal suppliers / industrial distributors. Often cut same day; sometimes cheaper per foot; worth a phone call first

Hardware starter kit

• T-slot nuts (M5 for 10-series 80/20, M8 for 15-series 80/20). Buy 50+ at a time, you'll use them all
• 90° corner brackets. Fastest way to make right-angle joins
• End caps. Keep extrusion ends from catching on things
• Joining plates, for extending lengths end-to-end

Tools required

• Miter saw with 80-tooth non-ferrous metal blade (standard wood blades work but leave rougher cuts)
• Drill + bits
• Metric hex keys (M5 and M8)
• Measuring tape (measure twice, cut once)

Popular M1 80/20 applications

• Overhead gear shelf / rail system. A pair of 1010 rails running fore-aft along the top of the side walls creates a gear loft for lightweight items (clothing, sleeping bag, pillows). Tie gear net across for easy access. Materials: 4–6 ft of 1010 per side, T-nuts, small shelf brackets.
• Bedside organizer / nightstand. A small 1010 frame attached to the T-track at head height holds a phone, headlamp, book, and small items. One of the simplest builds with outsized impact on daily usability. Takes about 30 minutes.
• LED lighting rail. 1010 extrusion running along the ceiling ridge makes a clean mount for 12V LED strip lighting. Route the wire through the T-slot channel to keep it tidy. Diffuser channel accessories give a finished look.
• Electrical panel. A small 1515 frame at the head of the sleeping platform creates a clean mount for your charge controller, fuse block, bus bars, and volt/amp display. Keeps wiring organized and accessible. Add a 1010 cable management channel alongside.
• Fridge slide-out. A 1515 frame on drawer slides holds a fridge at the foot of the bed and lets you slide it out for access without climbing into the camper. Heavier build (~5–8 lbs for the frame) but transforms fridge usability.
• Divider / privacy panel. A 1010 or 1515 frame tensioned between the side walls with a fabric panel creates a privacy divider between the sleeping area and gear storage. Useful for couples or for keeping a dog in the gear zone.

Where to get pre-cut sections

Cutting aluminum with a miter saw is easy once you've done it, but if you don't have the tools, several suppliers cut to length:

• 8020.net. Standard cut-to-length service; ~$1–2 per cut; provide exact measurements; allow 5–10 business days for shipping
• MISUMI. Cut to the millimeter, good for precise builds; similar pricing to 80/20 direct
• Online industrial suppliers (McMaster-Carr, Grainger). Wide selection; confirm cut-to-length availability before ordering
• Local metal shop. Call ahead, many will cut for free or $1–2/cut same day; bring a printed cut list

3D Printed Accessories

The M1 community is producing a growing library of 3D printed parts. If you have access to a printer (or know someone who does), these are the files worth printing.

The M1's integrated T-track is 40-series and uses M8 hardware. Most 3D printed accessories are designed to use M8 T-slot nuts so they mount anywhere on the M1's native track without drilling.

What community members are printing

• T-track accessory mounts. Custom brackets that use T-slot nuts to attach gear, tools, or devices anywhere on the interior walls
• Cable organizers and cord clips. Keep 12V wiring routed cleanly along the T-track channels
• Phone / device holders. Bedside or wall-mounted holders sized for specific phones, tablets, or radios
• Small item trays / cup holders. Bedside organizers for items that tend to roll around at night
• Vent and opening covers. Custom covers for ventilation openings or utility pass-throughs

Community print files are shared in the Expedition Portal M1 thread and on Printables (search "Tune M1" or "T-slot truck camper").

Print material recommendations

• PETG. Best all-around choice for interior parts; good strength, better heat resistance than PLA (matters in a parked camper in summer)
• ASA or ABS. For anything that might get hot (near electronics, in direct sun through panels)
• TPU. For flexible parts like cord clips, protective covers, or bumpers
• Avoid PLA for anything that will sit in a hot parked vehicle. It can deform above ~60°C

Etsy small-batch makers for M1 T-track

A handful of small-business makers on Etsy sell 3D printed accessories specifically designed for truck camper T-track systems, with explicit Tune M1 compatibility tested and confirmed. Good option if you don't have a printer and want something ready to bolt on.

Ventilation: The Fan Question

A powered roof vent is one of the highest-impact upgrades you can make to the M1. The M1 has a standard 14"×14" roof vent opening, the same size as most RV and van roof vents, so you have a wide selection of aftermarket fans to choose from. Order at configuration time, not after.

Why a powered fan matters

• Temperature. A parked camper in summer can get dangerously hot. Exhausting hot air drops the interior temp fast.
• Condensation. Two people sleeping produce enough moisture to soak a sleeping bag. Constant air exchange prevents buildup on the aluminum crossbeams
• Air quality. Cycling fresh air after a diesel heater run matters more than most owners expect
• Sleep quality. The white noise helps

Power draw

A MaxxAir 00-07500K on low speed draws ~1–2A; on high speed draws ~5–7A. Most owners run it on low for sleeping, which adds 8–16 Ah per overnight to your power budget. Factor this into battery sizing. See the battery guide.

Lighting

Good lighting transforms the feel of the M1 interior. What the community is running.

12V LED strip lighting (most popular)

A single run of 12V LED strip along the overhead T-track is the most common M1 lighting setup. Key choices:

• Color temperature. 2700–3000K (warm white) for a livable, cozy feel; 4000K+ feels clinical in a small space
• CRI. 90+ CRI strips render colors accurately, worth the small premium over low-CRI strips
• Dimming. A PWM dimmer switch (12V, inline, ~$10) makes a huge quality-of-life difference. Run at 10% before sleep
• Wattage. A 5W/meter strip is plenty for the M1 interior; 5–7 ft of strip uses less than 3W total

Popular picks: Govee 12V LED strip (~$15–25 for 16 ft), Waveform RGBW COB strip for high CRI (~$20–40). Mount in the T-track channel or use aluminum LED channel profile for a finished look.

Task lighting

• USB-C rechargeable puck lights (Govee or Lepro). Stick anywhere; no wiring; great for under-platform or gear storage areas
• Headlamp. Always have a backup; the primary light source when the battery is depleted
• 12V reading light. A gooseneck 12V light on a T-track mount for bedside reading without lighting the whole camper

If Tune's built-in halo lighting was ordered

The factory halo lighting option (ordered through Tune) is dimmable but runs on 20V DC (not 12V. If you're wiring it to your 12V house battery, you need a DC-DC boost converter (12V → 20V) inline. Owners who try to run it directly from 12V will blow fuses. Size the converter appropriately for the load) undersizing it is the most common mistake. If you have this option, you may only need supplemental task lighting beyond the halo for reading/task use.

Storage & Organization

Space is at a premium in the M1. These storage solutions make the most of every square inch.

• Gear net / hammock storage. A cargo net strung between the side walls above the sleeping area holds sleeping bags, clothing, and soft gear without adding any structural weight. Gear nets from Pelican or any outdoor retailer; attach with carabiners to the T-track. ~1–2 lbs for the net itself.
• Side pocket organizers. Hanging fabric organizers (think: back-seat car organizers) attach to the T-track walls and hold small items at arm's reach from the sleeping position. MOLLE-compatible panel organizers from military surplus also work well. ~0.5–1 lb.
• Under-platform storage. The space under the sleeping platform is the M1's main gear bay. Custom 80/20 dividers or simple off-the-shelf plastic totes (IRIS 12-gal stackable) organize this space well. Measure your platform clearance before buying totes.
• DECKED drawer system. One of the most-discussed floor systems in the M1 community. DECKED installs in the truck bed before the M1 and provides two weather-resistant drawers under a hardworking floor deck. Owners build their M1 interior on top of the DECKED system, gaining organized under-floor storage with easy access through the rear doors. DECKED builds draw some of the heaviest engagement of any topic in the owner community. Weight penalty is real (DECKED is not light), so check payload before ordering.
• T-track mounted tool/axe/shovel mounts. Quick Fist clamps (~$8–12 each) slip directly into the T-track and hold cylindrical items (shovels, axes, camp chairs) securely. One of the easiest and most useful T-track accessories.
• Bedside essentials tray. A small 3D printed or store-bought tray mounted to the T-track at head height for keys, phone, headlamp, earplugs. Check out the 3D printed accessories section for community designs.
• Cord management. A few cable clips (3M Command clips or T-track mounted PETG prints) routed along the wall keep charging cables and 12V wiring from tangling everything.

Wood & 2×4 Builds

Not everyone goes the 80/20 route. A solid chunk of the M1 community builds interiors using dimensional lumber: 2×4s, plywood, and standard wood construction. It's cheaper, easier to source, and more forgiving to work with if you don't have metalworking tools.

Why wood instead of 80/20

• Cost. 2×4s and plywood run a fraction of aluminum extrusion
• Tools. Standard carpentry tools most people already own; no miter saw with aluminum blade required
• Customizability. Easier to cut irregular shapes, notches, and compound angles
• The trade-off is weight. Wood is heavier per unit of strength than aluminum, and that matters on payload-constrained builds

What works well in wood

• Simple shelf platforms. A 2×4 frame with plywood decking creates a sturdy shelf or elevated sleep platform at very low cost
• Modular sleep/counter racks. Some owners build a 2×4 base with hinged panels that swing down for sleeping and fold up as a counter surface during the day. "I can sit, stand, and lay on 2×4s unsupported" is a common report.
• Raised floor systems. A 4–6" raised floor on 2×4 framing provides under-floor storage similar to DECKED at a fraction of the cost; the plywood deck can be removable for access
• Cabinet carcasses. Basic box construction for shelves, drawers, or cabinets using 3/4" plywood

Wood build tips from the community

• Use hardwood plywood (Baltic birch) over construction plywood. Lighter per sheet for equivalent strength, better screw holding
• HDPE cutting boards make excellent countertop surfaces. Waterproof, impervious to liquids and UV, easy to clean
• Secure wood builds to the M1's T-track with L-brackets and M8 hardware. Don't just let them float free
• Seal all exposed edges with polyurethane or edge banding to protect against moisture
• Wood gains weight fast. A simple 2×4 platform can be 15–25 lbs before you add gear on top of it

Door Latch Fix: The Day-One Replacement

The M1's stock barn door latches are one of the most-discussed pain points in the community. The factory latches can feel flimsy, may not hold securely on washboard roads, and have been known to rattle or pop open unexpectedly.

The fix: Southco C2-43-25 compression latches

The community-standard replacement is the Southco C2-43-25 compression latch, a marine-grade, pull-to-open latch designed for vibration-heavy environments (boats, off-road vehicles, industrial enclosures). These hold firmly under rough road conditions and feel more solid than the factory latches.

• Price. ~$30–$50 per latch (need 2 for both barn doors)
• Install time. ~30 minutes per latch with basic hand tools
• Fitment. Uses existing mounting points or requires minimal drilling
• Finish. Available in chrome, black, and raw stainless

Backup Camera & Rear Visibility

The M1 completely blocks the rear window view. You cannot see behind the truck through the cab. A backup camera goes from "nice to have" to required safety equipment the moment the M1 is mounted. This was a 319-comment community discussion topic.

Options by complexity

• Factory tailgate camera (if equipped). If your truck has a factory backup camera on the tailgate handle, it still works. The M1 mounts above the tailgate line. However, the viewing angle is limited and shows only the area directly behind the tailgate, not what's above or to the sides.
• Wireless solar backup camera (~$120–$160). The simplest aftermarket option. The AUTO-VOX Solar Wireless Backup Camera mounts on the rear barn door or M1 exterior with adhesive or a small bracket. Solar-powered, wireless to a display in the cab. No wiring through the camper. The most popular low-effort solution.
• Wired rear dashcam (~$150–$250). A dashcam system with a rear camera module (Viofo A229 Plus, BlackVue DR900X) gives continuous recording plus a live rear view. Requires running a cable from the camera to the head unit, which is more involved but provides better video quality and recording.
• Roof-mounted camera. For the best field of view, mount a camera at M1 roof height on the rear. This gives a higher vantage point than tailgate-level cameras and is better for highway driving. Requires more creative mounting (T-track bracket or adhesive mount on the M1 exterior).

Truck camper jacks for the Tune M1

The Tune M1 is designed to stay on the truck. Most M1 owners install once and leave it mounted. At ~400 lbs (mid-size) or 500 lbs (full-size), the M1 is light by truck-camper standards but heavier than its compact footprint suggests, so removal is a deliberate job, not a casual swap.

For owners who do want to take the M1 off (for off-season storage, sale, or a major repair), Tune sells a purpose-made camper jack system for the M1 (~$1,200). It's available on Tune's accessory page and is built specifically for the M1's frame and lift points. Note that the jack system is offered for the M1 only; it is not compatible with the M1L.

How long M1 removal takes depends on how dialed-in your setup is. With a practiced routine it can be as quick as 20 minutes; most owners report closer to 45 minutes to an hour while they're still learning the process. Either way it's far less work than wrestling an 1,800-lb hardside slide-in off a truck. Photographer Ben Horne documented his full removal-and-storage process — camper jacks, alignment, a sawhorse storage platform, and reinstall — and it's a detailed real-world look at what an efficient system looks like. His takeaway matches the community's: removal is manageable solo, but reinstall is a two-person job.

Beyond Tune's own jack system, owners use one of these setups for support and storage:

• Tune's camper jack system. The purpose-built option. Lets you raise the M1 off the truck and lower it onto stands or back the truck out from under it. Ordered from Tune.
• Heavy-duty sawhorses (rated 600+ lbs each). A common storage option. Two pairs support the M1 evenly. Buy from local hardware (Tractor Supply, Harbor Freight) or a small workshop supplier. Cost: ~$40–$80/pair.
• Adjustable industrial storage stands. Four height-adjustable stands let you raise the M1 to truck-bed height and back the truck under it on reinstall. Look at industrial stands rated for the load. Avoid lightweight craft stands.
• Engine-hoist or shop crane. A 2,000-lb engine hoist with a spreader bar lifts the M1 cleanly by its frame for owners with a garage. Worth considering if you anticipate moving the camper more than once or twice.

Before you break the tie-downs loose, mark the M1's alignment on the bed (tape on the rails works) so the reinstall lands square. Reinstall is the slower half of the job because the M1 has to come down onto the mounting hardware accurately.

Traditional electric camper jacks built for hardside slide-ins (Happijac, Rieco-Titan) are designed for 1,500–3,500-lb campers with their own corner brackets. Tune's own M1 jack system is the right tool for the M1 rather than a generic slide-in jack.

Tie-downs for the Tune M1

The Tune M1 mounts to your truck using a clamp-based system that grips the bed rails. No drilling is required for most trucks. The clamps hold the M1 to the truck so it doesn't shift in transit; with the M1's low weight and low center of gravity, the mounting hardware sees far less load than tie-downs on a heavy slide-in.

What the M1 ships with

• Bed-rail clamps and mounting hardware included with the camper, sized for your truck's bed rails. Tune torques the mounting bolts to 8 ft-lb.
• Truck-specific fitment. The M1 is built for your truck model, so the mount is matched to your bed at order time when you tell Tune which truck you drive.
• Hardware inspection schedule. Tune calls for re-checking the mounting hardware after 250, 500, 1,000, and 5,000 miles, then quarterly.

Bed modifications by truck

Most trucks need no permanent modification. A few do:

• Composite-bed trucks (GMC Canyon, Chevy Colorado) need permanent bed-rail stiffeners installed as part of the mount.
• Smaller modifications are needed for the Honda Ridgeline, 1st-gen Ford Maverick, 4th-gen Toyota Tacoma, and 5th-gen Ford Ranger. Confirm the specifics with Tune for your truck.

For a step-by-step on bed prep before the mount goes on, see the setup guide. For Tacoma-specific bed prep notes, see the Toyota Tacoma + M1 page.

Installation: how the M1 goes on your truck

The Tune M1's first installation is done by Tune. It happens either at Tune's headquarters in Denver, Colorado, or at a certified Tune dealer in the US or Canada. You bring your truck, Tune mounts the camper to your specific bed, and they walk you through the system before you drive away. The M1 is custom-built for your truck model, so the initial fit and mount is Tune's job, not a driveway project.

What owners handle themselves is re-mounting after a removal. If you take the M1 off for off-season storage, a sale, or a repair, putting it back on is the roughly hour-long process described in the jacks section above: a flat space, a small team or rigging, and careful alignment to the bed-rail clamps. The re-mount sequence falls into three phases:

1. Bed prep. Clean the truck bed. Confirm the protective layer (mat or board) between the M1 and the bed is in place if you run one.
2. Position the M1. With a small team or rigging, set the M1 back in the bed. Use the alignment marks you made before removal to land it square.
3. Mount and torque. Reconnect the bed-rail clamps and torque the mounting bolts to 8 ft-lb. Check that the M1 is square to the truck, and re-check the hardware after the first 250 miles of driving since bolts and clamps settle.

For the deeper interior buildout work after the M1 is mounted, the M1 interior buildout guide is the most-discussed M1 build topic in one place: DECKED floors, 80/20 framing, cabinet plans, kitchen units, and the order owners tackle them.

Tune M1 setup & build guides

The full set of M1 install and build guides on this site, in the order owners typically work through them:

• Ordering guide. Which options to add at config time vs. source yourself after delivery. Factory-installed roof vent fans, insulation, electrical, and mattress all live here.
• Setup guide. Empty truck bed to move-in ready: bed prep, install, 80/20 framing basics, and first-night checklist.
• Interior buildout guide. The deep build content. DECKED floors, 80/20 vs. wood, storage systems, cabinet plans, kitchen units, and bench walls.
• Electrical guide. Battery, DC-DC charger, solar, inverter, fuse block. How they connect and what wire to use.
• Methodology. Where every weight, price, and spec on the site comes from, and how conflicts get resolved.
• Maintenance. Seam sealant, hinge care, canvas cleaning, and the annual checklist.

Community Builds

Real M1 owner builds showing how different owners have customized their campers.

This section will grow as the community submits builds. The best place to find real M1 owner builds right now:

• Expedition Portal (M1 Campers Only thread). The most active community build thread; owners post full build details, photos, and lessons learned
• Instagram #tunem1 and #tuneoutdoor. Lots of finished builds and ongoing buildout content
• Reddit r/overlanding and r/TruckCampers. Occasional M1 build posts with community feedback